Despite having a flight home at 12:30 this afternoon, I managed to pack some more sightseeing into the few morning hours before I had to head to the airport. I was up with the birds at 4:30, hit the hotel gym at 6, breakfast at 7, and out the door by 7:20. A quick stop at Tim Horton’s (how could I resist?) and I was on my way to Eastern Passage. Famed for its Fisherman’s Cove, Eastern Passage is a small town located to the southeast of Halifax at the entrance to Halifax Harbour. There is a small channel between Eastern Passage and McNabs Island, and along this channel lies Fisherman’s Cove. When I was there this morning, there were several brightly colored fishing vessels in the narrow cove lined with lobster traps and fishing nets. Picture perfect! Adjacent to Fisherman’s Cove is McCormacks Beach and boardwalk. The long boardwalk traverses the marshes and along the rocky beach’s edge and was perfect for a brisk morning walk (it was only in the low 40s this morning!).
After my walk, I drove around to Cow Bay and stopped at Rainbow Haven Beach for another walk. The waves were rolling in and the wind was blowing, but it was a great view of the ocean. I followed the Marine Route around to Cole Harbour, then made a quick side trip to Lawrencetown Beach before heading north to the airport. The turboprop didn’t seem *quite* as small today as it did on Friday, but still not my cup of tea. Since you go through U.S. Immigration in Halifax, I was off the plane and into my car in no time. It amazes me that this morning I was walking along a beach in Nova Scotia and now, just a few hours later, I am lying on my couch with a coffee cake in the oven, catching up on my DVR. The wonder of travel!
Irish music and dancing, a visit to the Halifax Public Gardens and Citadel, and some local Nova Scotia cider were the highlights of a rain-filled day in Halifax. I abandoned my morning plans to drive along the Eastern Shore and instead spent the whole day in the city. I started by walking around the Public Gardens, which surprisingly had a large number of flowers in bloom for this time of year. From there, I hiked up Citadel Hill in time to see the 11:00 changing of the guard at the Citadel before walking along the ramparts and through the fortress. By the time I left, the rain/drizzle had set in.
What else was there to do but seek out some food at the Halifax Seaport Farmers Market? The food never materialized, but I did sample some delicious local cider made from apples grown by the people in a neighboring booth. (The craft cider scene is strong in Nova Scotia!) If I didn’t have to transport it home, I would have bought some. I left the Farmers Market and headed out in the drizzle along the waterfront Harbourwalk. I managed to find a couple of shirts to take home and enjoyed the salt water smell to the air. In many ways, Halifax reminds me of Charleston, South Carolina. Both are cities built on the water with a mix of cargo ships, fishing vessels, and a fun coastal vibe.
By then it was time to pick up my original plan for the afternoon: Celtic music and dance. First up was The Old Triangle, an Irish pub with traditional Irish music and set dancing on Sunday afternoons. It was good, but I certainly wouldn’t call either the music or the dancers lively. I stayed about an hour and enjoyed a No Boats On Sunday cider (another excellent one!) before heading to the next stop on my self-proclaimed Sunday afternoon pub crawl. Except my pub crawl was cut short when I arrived at Durty Nelly’s to find the Sunday afternoon ceilidh cancelled. Oh well. I wasn’t planning to drink anyway since my last bottle was enjoyed on an empty stomach. I figured I might as well just have an early dinner. Except the restaurant I was planning to eat at was mysteriously closed (it is Thanksgiving here tomorrow…). Back to the car, back over the bridge to Dartmouth, back to the hotel. I settled for a decent, albeit boring, dinner at the nearby Montana’s Cookhouse before heading back to the hotel for a swim, hot tub soak, and a couple of trips down the indoor water slide. I’m hoping to head out early tomorrow to explore a bit of the Eastern Shore that I missed out on today before heading to the airport.
If you’ve never been to Nova Scotia, start making your plans now. Trust me on this one. This is my fourth visit to “Canada’s Ocean Playground”, and I love it just as much as I did the first time around. Sunny, cloud-dappled skies, crisp autumn temperatures, and huge ocean swells with crashing waves made for a perfect day along Nova Scotia’s southern shore.
I’m trying hard to forget about last night’s turboprop flight to get here (and the looming return flight home). It wasn’t a horrible experience, but small spaces and I don’t exactly get along. It was a big enough plane (75 or so seats), but way too narrow and low-ceilinged for me. Couple that with sitting right next to the propeller and it wasn’t what I would call a relaxing flight. Fortunately, it was a quick hour and ten minutes to Halifax where I picked up a rental car, found my hotel, slept fitfully for a few hours, and headed off to explore Nova Scotia (after grabbing a bag of Timbits for breakfast at Tim Hortons!).
First stop: Peggy’s Cove. I wanted to get there early to beat the crowds and tourist buses and despite multiple photo stops along the way, I was able to get in some good pictures before the first busload of tourists rolled in. Peggy’s Cove has somewhere around 300 residents and is perched on a rocky stretch of shoreline surrounded on three sides by the mighty Atlantic. And mighty it was today, with wave after wave crashing against the rocks and sending salt water flying up into the air. It’s no wonder its most popular attraction is a navigational lighthouse on the highest rocky outcrop. Beyond the lighthouse, there is the pretty cove itself with fishing boats dotting its waters along with a handful of local craft and gift shops.
After spending over an hour in Peggy’s Cove, it was time to keep moving. I followed the shoreline along St. Margaret’s Bay before joining the main road to Mahone Bay and Lunenburg. Mahone Bay is situated along the bay of the same name and is famed for having three churches lined up along the water’s edge which are often photographed from across the bay. I walked around the town for a while before grabbing a sinfully delicious chocolate pastry (because the donut holes for breakfast weren’t nearly enough sugar for the day…) and relaxing in the loft at The Barn Coffee House. Then it was on to Lunenburg. Lunenburg is another seaside village with a large fishing fleet. I didn’t linger as long there, and soon I was heading back to Dartmouth for dinner and a little shopping before calling it a night.
I made the most of my last day in Scotland, doing lots of walking and enjoying some amazing music along the way. I didn’t really have a set plan for the day other than that I wanted to see the lower end of the Royal Mile this morning and hear the Barnsley Youth Choir this afternoon. I stopped at the Fringe box office and got a ticket for the concert as well as a ticket for another concert late morning. Then I walked the length of the Royal Mile down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh). I had to walk quickly to make it back to the “Best of Broadway” concert by American Performing Arts International. The concert was excellent, with seven men and women singing tunes from lesser known and newer Broadway musicals. I didn’t know many of the songs, but the singers were great and the hour passed quickly.
I had time for a quick stop at Clarinda’s Tea Room for my last scone in Scotland (unless I find one at the airport tomorrow 😉 ) before heading to Greyfriars Kirk to hear the Barnsley Youth Choir. This had been on my “must do” list for the Fringe Festival, and all I can say is “wow”! The choir stood around the church for the first couple of songs and then made their way onto the stage. There were only 75 performers there today from the senior choir, but the choir is made up of 450 children and young adults who otherwise may not have access to musical opportunities. Most come to the group with little or no musical background and end up touring the world as part of the choir. They are the fourth ranked choir in the world, singing everything from ballads to spirituals to popular music. I could go on and on about how great they were, but I’ll just give you this YouTube link so you can listen for yourself (same soloist; different year). The concert was so good I immediately bought a ticket for the 5PM show (a completely different program).
On the way back to the hotel, I stopped at Let Them Eat Too for a sandwich and made a pit stop at Tesco for some goodies to bring home. Now it’s early to bed partly to make up for yesterday’s late night and partly because I need to be on a train back to Glasgow around 6 o’clock tomorrow morning…
I managed to pack a lot into the day today… and I still love Edinburgh, despite all the crowds! I started the morning at Mary King’s Close. This was one of the things I was most looking forward to in Edinburgh. Mary King’s Close is one of the tiny alleyways off the Royal Mile that has been preserved and turned into a museum of sorts. Sadly no photographs are allowed inside. The tour winds its way down through the close stopping at various points for some background on the locations, conditions, and families who lived in the closely packed tenement buildings (some could be as tall as 10 stories!). The tour lasted about an hour and was a neat way to see some of the original parts of the city. After the close, it was off to see the 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee.This particular performance was staged by an American high school acting group. It was my second time seeing the play and I laughed several times and had forgotten a few of the scenes, so it was a good choice.
Can you guess what I needed after my busy morning? Yep, a midday scone, this time at Loudons Cafe. I’ve only had a couple of scones this trip, but this was definitely one of the best I’ve ever had. Very light and fluffy, and once I smothered it in clotted cream and blackcurrant jam, it was even better. I thought I might go back to the hotel to rest this afternoon, but I’m in Scotland. I can rest all I want when I get home. So I spent time walking around Greyfriars Kirkyard (kirk = church) before enjoying some afternoon Scottish folk music and cider at Sandy Bells pub.
Then it was off to the theater again. One of the performers from the play “Departure Date” was passing out flyers on the Royal Mile this morning and it looked good. A depressing storyline about a man who finds out he has 24 hours to live and decides to try to live it up with a girl he’s had his eye on actually made for a good 40 minutes of laughs. As one of only 10 people in the audience, I felt like I was completely immersed in the story. I had dinner at Deacon Brodies Tavern on the Royal Mile tonight. Part of the chain of Nicholson’s pubs throughout the UK, the atmosphere was pure British pub with food to match. Bonus: excellent sticky toffee pudding!
The final and best event of the day was the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. This will probably end up being the highlight of Edinburgh. Not to be confused with body art, the Tattoo is a nightly ceremonial performance involving military bands, dancers, and various other performers from the U.K. and around the world that takes place every August. Think Disney World meets British pomp and circumstance. Set up on the castle esplanade, the Tattoo is a 90 minute spectacle that is completely amazing and choreographed with all the pageantry you can imagine from a British military ensemble. The evening is capped off with a fireworks display over the castle. Picture perfect!
Edinburgh… this is the Scotland I’ve been waiting for! I took the 8AM train from Glasgow (just 45 minutes), dropped off my luggage at the hotel, then set out to explore the Old Town. I just got here, and already I don’t want to leave. This is everything I’d been hoping for in Glasgow. A woman sitting at a table next to me the other night said that Glasgow has a more trendy/hip vibe, while Edinburgh is more posh. I’m not sure I’d use the word “posh”, but I know exactly what she meant. Pubs galore, cobblestone streets, and just a more traditional British feel. I had a ticket to the castle, so I made that my first stop. I took a quick 30 minute guided tour before exploring on my own. I got to see the Scottish crown jewels and heard the 1 o’clock gun which is fired daily to allow mariners in the nearby Firth of Forth to set their clocks. I should probably mention there are tons of people here. With multiple festivals on and the military tattoo (I’ll be going to that tomorrow), Edinburgh is certainly a busy place. The Fringe Festival alone has more than 50,000 shows on over the next 3 weeks.
After the castle, it was time for my midday treat at Lovecrumbs. I thought I had read they had scones, but I was forced to settle for a slice of Victoria Sponge Cake and salted caramel hot chocolate. I bake just about every weekend during the school year, and I’m going for a British theme this year, so it was purely research based. I should probably note that it is finally sunny out today, so I’m sure that is also influencing my love for Edinburgh.
It is wall to wall people all along the Royal Mile (the road between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse). There are buskers everywhere and literally hundreds of people handing out cards and flyers advertising their Fringe Festival performances. I had to stop to pick up some tickets for events tomorrow, then I just wandered through the wynds and closes (tiny alleyways off the Royal mile). There was an original musical that had looked interesting to me in the Fringe guide, so I made my way to St. Columba’s by the Castle to see 89 Nights. It was about a girl who has 90 days (89 nights) on a tourist visa to the US and her experiences in Manhattan. Interesting, enthusiastic cast, but it didn’t quite live up to my expectations. I had planned to have dinner at a nearby pub, but they only serve food until 3, so I missed out. Instead I found an Italian place (that I’m pretty sure is a chain) and had a piadina with Parma ham and mozzarella on the patio.