The two highlights of the day: food and Hamilton. I got a good night’s sleep and started the day indulging in a “French toast flight” at Batter and Berries in the Lincoln Park neighborhood. I had been planning this breakfast for weeks, so it should come as no surprise that I didn’t even need to look at the menu. I ordered the “super flight”, which includes four of the regular French toast menu items (blueberry, strawberry, caramel, and lemon) along with this week’s special: Heath. I started by trying a couple of bites of each one and then decided to work my way up from my least favorite to my most favorite. I cleaned the plate.
Fortunately (for my waistline), I decided to walk from there to Lincoln Park to visit the conservatory and zoo. I have fond memories of the orchid room on my last visit to Chicago many years ago, but there weren’t too many in bloom today. The conservatory did provide a nice respite from the brisk morning temperatures. Then it was back to the cold as I walked around the Lincoln Park Zoo, a free Chicago attraction housing a large variety of animals. My favorites are always the gorillas, but I loved watching the monkeys swing (one kept hitting the glass because he overshot the rope!) as well. I spent a couple of hours wandering around the zoo and adjacent boardwalk before jumping on a bus to walk the Magnificent Mile. I stopped into a couple of stores before making my way to my afternoon destination: the CIBC Theater for Hamilton.
I’m not one of those people who has been wanting to see Hamilton since it first came out. I was ambivalent about going to see it in Boston. But, when I saw that it was playing in Chicago, I decided I might as well see what all the hype is about. I spent the first few songs thinking I should have saved my money, and then…. it won me over. Not being a history person, I figured I’d be bored watching people sing about one of the founding fathers for three hours and wouldn’t be able to follow the plot. On the contrary, I found myself having a new appreciation for Alexander Hamilton and I would recommend the show to anyone. It was that good.
I went back and forth on what I wanted for dinner tonight several times, and finally decided to forgo the deep dish pizza and head back to Lincoln Park for dinner at Riccardo Enoteca. It was a very good choice! I ended up eating at the bar instead of one of the cozy tables (which would have required a long wait) and enjoyed pennoni carbonara and panna cotta. A delicious end to the day!
First things first: it’s COLD in Chicago. Not just “Oh, there’s a little chill in the air” cold, but 18 degrees and blustery wind cold. At least that’s what it was when I was walking to my hotel a little after midnight. Oh, you want to know why I was out so late? Let me tell you the story! As I was getting to my gate at Logan last night, they were making an appeal for 5 volunteers to give up their seats on the 5:30 flight. In exchange for a guaranteed seat on the 8:15 flight. And a $700 travel voucher. Gosh, I’ll have to give this some thought. Just kidding! I immediately jumped into line and the rest is history. The flight was delayed but I eventually got to my hotel a little after midnight and…. wait a minute. I canceled that reservation and rebooked at a lower rate. What’s that? I canceled the wrong reservation and kept the more expensive rate?! Well that puts a little dent in the $700 I just earned. 😦
Fast forward about 6 hours and I was up and at ‘em at the crack of dawn. It wasn’t a matter of if I would crash today, but when. Spoiler: the answer is 1PM; that’s when I thought I might just curl up on a bench and sleep. I’m used to a faithful 9 hours of sleep every night and I fell about 5 hours short of that last night. I needed sustenance in the form of pancakes. And boy, did Wildberry Pancakes deliver! I had my mind made up on the signature “Berry Bliss” pancakes, and then the waitress asked if I wanted just the pancakes, or if I might like them as a side for one of the egg dishes. Well, I had been eyeing the skillets at a neighboring table that looked amazing. Which is how I came to feast on a skillet of hash browns, ham, and eggs smothered in melted cheddar and a short stack of berry bliss pancakes for my first breakfast in Chicago. Looks like I’m going to love it here.
After breakfast, I walked over to and around Navy Pier in the bitter cold before taking the lakefront trail over to Millennium Park and the Art Institute of Chicago. I took the obligatory pictures of the “Bean” and spent about 2 hours walking around the Art Institute. I’m not much of an art person, but I found myself drawn to the Contemporary Art section and I also enjoyed the American Art exhibits. It’s a pretty impressive collection. Afterwards, I hit TJ Maxx before heading back to the hotel. I was able to successfully plead my case to the hotel manager, who changed my room rate to the lower one I thought I was getting. I couldn’t spend much time in my room lest I give up on going back out for dinner.
Dinner tonight was at Piece Pizzeria and Brewery. I’d like to call it a little hole in the wall, but it’s definitely been discovered by more than a few Chicagoans. Nonetheless, I snagged a seat at the bar and settled in with a white pizza and cider. It wasn’t so good I felt I would go back again, but it did the job of filling me up. And now it is a little after 7PM and I’m already in my pajamas laying in bed typing this. I’m fading fast and I’m determined to get a good night’s sleep so I can get back out and explore more of the city tomorrow!
Despite having a flight home at 12:30 this afternoon, I managed to pack some more sightseeing into the few morning hours before I had to head to the airport. I was up with the birds at 4:30, hit the hotel gym at 6, breakfast at 7, and out the door by 7:20. A quick stop at Tim Horton’s (how could I resist?) and I was on my way to Eastern Passage. Famed for its Fisherman’s Cove, Eastern Passage is a small town located to the southeast of Halifax at the entrance to Halifax Harbour. There is a small channel between Eastern Passage and McNabs Island, and along this channel lies Fisherman’s Cove. When I was there this morning, there were several brightly colored fishing vessels in the narrow cove lined with lobster traps and fishing nets. Picture perfect! Adjacent to Fisherman’s Cove is McCormacks Beach and boardwalk. The long boardwalk traverses the marshes and along the rocky beach’s edge and was perfect for a brisk morning walk (it was only in the low 40s this morning!).
After my walk, I drove around to Cow Bay and stopped at Rainbow Haven Beach for another walk. The waves were rolling in and the wind was blowing, but it was a great view of the ocean. I followed the Marine Route around to Cole Harbour, then made a quick side trip to Lawrencetown Beach before heading north to the airport. The turboprop didn’t seem *quite* as small today as it did on Friday, but still not my cup of tea. Since you go through U.S. Immigration in Halifax, I was off the plane and into my car in no time. It amazes me that this morning I was walking along a beach in Nova Scotia and now, just a few hours later, I am lying on my couch with a coffee cake in the oven, catching up on my DVR. The wonder of travel!
Irish music and dancing, a visit to the Halifax Public Gardens and Citadel, and some local Nova Scotia cider were the highlights of a rain-filled day in Halifax. I abandoned my morning plans to drive along the Eastern Shore and instead spent the whole day in the city. I started by walking around the Public Gardens, which surprisingly had a large number of flowers in bloom for this time of year. From there, I hiked up Citadel Hill in time to see the 11:00 changing of the guard at the Citadel before walking along the ramparts and through the fortress. By the time I left, the rain/drizzle had set in.
What else was there to do but seek out some food at the Halifax Seaport Farmers Market? The food never materialized, but I did sample some delicious local cider made from apples grown by the people in a neighboring booth. (The craft cider scene is strong in Nova Scotia!) If I didn’t have to transport it home, I would have bought some. I left the Farmers Market and headed out in the drizzle along the waterfront Harbourwalk. I managed to find a couple of shirts to take home and enjoyed the salt water smell to the air. In many ways, Halifax reminds me of Charleston, South Carolina. Both are cities built on the water with a mix of cargo ships, fishing vessels, and a fun coastal vibe.
By then it was time to pick up my original plan for the afternoon: Celtic music and dance. First up was The Old Triangle, an Irish pub with traditional Irish music and set dancing on Sunday afternoons. It was good, but I certainly wouldn’t call either the music or the dancers lively. I stayed about an hour and enjoyed a No Boats On Sunday cider (another excellent one!) before heading to the next stop on my self-proclaimed Sunday afternoon pub crawl. Except my pub crawl was cut short when I arrived at Durty Nelly’s to find the Sunday afternoon ceilidh cancelled. Oh well. I wasn’t planning to drink anyway since my last bottle was enjoyed on an empty stomach. I figured I might as well just have an early dinner. Except the restaurant I was planning to eat at was mysteriously closed (it is Thanksgiving here tomorrow…). Back to the car, back over the bridge to Dartmouth, back to the hotel. I settled for a decent, albeit boring, dinner at the nearby Montana’s Cookhouse before heading back to the hotel for a swim, hot tub soak, and a couple of trips down the indoor water slide. I’m hoping to head out early tomorrow to explore a bit of the Eastern Shore that I missed out on today before heading to the airport.
If you’ve never been to Nova Scotia, start making your plans now. Trust me on this one. This is my fourth visit to “Canada’s Ocean Playground”, and I love it just as much as I did the first time around. Sunny, cloud-dappled skies, crisp autumn temperatures, and huge ocean swells with crashing waves made for a perfect day along Nova Scotia’s southern shore.
I’m trying hard to forget about last night’s turboprop flight to get here (and the looming return flight home). It wasn’t a horrible experience, but small spaces and I don’t exactly get along. It was a big enough plane (75 or so seats), but way too narrow and low-ceilinged for me. Couple that with sitting right next to the propeller and it wasn’t what I would call a relaxing flight. Fortunately, it was a quick hour and ten minutes to Halifax where I picked up a rental car, found my hotel, slept fitfully for a few hours, and headed off to explore Nova Scotia (after grabbing a bag of Timbits for breakfast at Tim Hortons!).
First stop: Peggy’s Cove. I wanted to get there early to beat the crowds and tourist buses and despite multiple photo stops along the way, I was able to get in some good pictures before the first busload of tourists rolled in. Peggy’s Cove has somewhere around 300 residents and is perched on a rocky stretch of shoreline surrounded on three sides by the mighty Atlantic. And mighty it was today, with wave after wave crashing against the rocks and sending salt water flying up into the air. It’s no wonder its most popular attraction is a navigational lighthouse on the highest rocky outcrop. Beyond the lighthouse, there is the pretty cove itself with fishing boats dotting its waters along with a handful of local craft and gift shops.
After spending over an hour in Peggy’s Cove, it was time to keep moving. I followed the shoreline along St. Margaret’s Bay before joining the main road to Mahone Bay and Lunenburg. Mahone Bay is situated along the bay of the same name and is famed for having three churches lined up along the water’s edge which are often photographed from across the bay. I walked around the town for a while before grabbing a sinfully delicious chocolate pastry (because the donut holes for breakfast weren’t nearly enough sugar for the day…) and relaxing in the loft at The Barn Coffee House. Then it was on to Lunenburg. Lunenburg is another seaside village with a large fishing fleet. I didn’t linger as long there, and soon I was heading back to Dartmouth for dinner and a little shopping before calling it a night.
I made the most of my last day in Scotland, doing lots of walking and enjoying some amazing music along the way. I didn’t really have a set plan for the day other than that I wanted to see the lower end of the Royal Mile this morning and hear the Barnsley Youth Choir this afternoon. I stopped at the Fringe box office and got a ticket for the concert as well as a ticket for another concert late morning. Then I walked the length of the Royal Mile down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh). I had to walk quickly to make it back to the “Best of Broadway” concert by American Performing Arts International. The concert was excellent, with seven men and women singing tunes from lesser known and newer Broadway musicals. I didn’t know many of the songs, but the singers were great and the hour passed quickly.
I had time for a quick stop at Clarinda’s Tea Room for my last scone in Scotland (unless I find one at the airport tomorrow 😉 ) before heading to Greyfriars Kirk to hear the Barnsley Youth Choir. This had been on my “must do” list for the Fringe Festival, and all I can say is “wow”! The choir stood around the church for the first couple of songs and then made their way onto the stage. There were only 75 performers there today from the senior choir, but the choir is made up of 450 children and young adults who otherwise may not have access to musical opportunities. Most come to the group with little or no musical background and end up touring the world as part of the choir. They are the fourth ranked choir in the world, singing everything from ballads to spirituals to popular music. I could go on and on about how great they were, but I’ll just give you this YouTube link so you can listen for yourself (same soloist; different year). The concert was so good I immediately bought a ticket for the 5PM show (a completely different program).
On the way back to the hotel, I stopped at Let Them Eat Too for a sandwich and made a pit stop at Tesco for some goodies to bring home. Now it’s early to bed partly to make up for yesterday’s late night and partly because I need to be on a train back to Glasgow around 6 o’clock tomorrow morning…
I managed to pack a lot into the day today… and I still love Edinburgh, despite all the crowds! I started the morning at Mary King’s Close. This was one of the things I was most looking forward to in Edinburgh. Mary King’s Close is one of the tiny alleyways off the Royal Mile that has been preserved and turned into a museum of sorts. Sadly no photographs are allowed inside. The tour winds its way down through the close stopping at various points for some background on the locations, conditions, and families who lived in the closely packed tenement buildings (some could be as tall as 10 stories!). The tour lasted about an hour and was a neat way to see some of the original parts of the city. After the close, it was off to see the 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee.This particular performance was staged by an American high school acting group. It was my second time seeing the play and I laughed several times and had forgotten a few of the scenes, so it was a good choice.
Can you guess what I needed after my busy morning? Yep, a midday scone, this time at Loudons Cafe. I’ve only had a couple of scones this trip, but this was definitely one of the best I’ve ever had. Very light and fluffy, and once I smothered it in clotted cream and blackcurrant jam, it was even better. I thought I might go back to the hotel to rest this afternoon, but I’m in Scotland. I can rest all I want when I get home. So I spent time walking around Greyfriars Kirkyard (kirk = church) before enjoying some afternoon Scottish folk music and cider at Sandy Bells pub.
Then it was off to the theater again. One of the performers from the play “Departure Date” was passing out flyers on the Royal Mile this morning and it looked good. A depressing storyline about a man who finds out he has 24 hours to live and decides to try to live it up with a girl he’s had his eye on actually made for a good 40 minutes of laughs. As one of only 10 people in the audience, I felt like I was completely immersed in the story. I had dinner at Deacon Brodies Tavern on the Royal Mile tonight. Part of the chain of Nicholson’s pubs throughout the UK, the atmosphere was pure British pub with food to match. Bonus: excellent sticky toffee pudding!
The final and best event of the day was the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. This will probably end up being the highlight of Edinburgh. Not to be confused with body art, the Tattoo is a nightly ceremonial performance involving military bands, dancers, and various other performers from the U.K. and around the world that takes place every August. Think Disney World meets British pomp and circumstance. Set up on the castle esplanade, the Tattoo is a 90 minute spectacle that is completely amazing and choreographed with all the pageantry you can imagine from a British military ensemble. The evening is capped off with a fireworks display over the castle. Picture perfect!